This may be the weirdest statement to ever come from me (and we all know what that means), but it's entirely possible and likely that while visiting Africa, one will gain weight. Well, that statement at least applies to South Africa, which in many respects, despite an institutionalized system of racism and poverty (which is slowly, slowly changing), functions as a first-world country. I ate well in South Africa, and held off a few extra pounds only because of a vicious two-punch attack of the cold and flu.
In no particular order are listed highlights of my food experiences in South Africa during my recent holiday vacation.
--Kudu and ostrich. "Exotic" meats that I tried for the first time - and really enjoyed. Kudu was a bit gamier than steak, but equally delicious. Ostrich is also similar to steak - it reminded me of tri tip - only a bit healthier. And go figure, the ostrich, a flightless (and stupid) bird, is considered red meat. Gabe grilled an excellent oriental-marinated ostrich for dinner. The kudu at Emily's was served rare with a chocolate sauce, chopped pineapple and blueberries; it sounds weird, but the combination worked very well. I had a healthy serving of kudu casserole at Moyo (thin shepher's pie), which also featured a hint of chocolate, making me think that the pairing is fairly traditional. I also had springbok at Moyo, but found it a little too greasy for my liking.
--The Olympia Cafe. Located in Kalk Bay, the Olympia Cafe is actually a bakery with a restaurant on the side. I think my favorite meal in all of South Africa was at the Olympia Cafe, and this wasn't just because it was the first meal that I enjoyed as a healthy person since arriving in the country. My mussels were fabulous, and really, put most of the other mussels that I've eaten in my life to shame. They were served in a perfect white wine broth, with some garlic and parsley and a few other tasty things thrown in for good measure. Gabe had a pear and prosciutto salad; the pears were poached in anise liqueur. Jen had pasta and seafood. And Jason had an amazing dish with a name I can't quite remember (involuntaire? involundide?), eggplant wrapped around butternut squash and served on a bed of polenta, with some red sauce to tie it all together. Lemon tart with a crunchy and warm caramelized shell on top, fresh cream, strawberries and passionfruit puree finished the meal.
--Township Dining. South Africa institutionalized racism, resulting in the vast majority of the population forced to live in townships, little more than poverty stricken shantytowns. Significant efforts are being made to improve conditions in the township and I couldn't help but notice signs of economic gains being made in the townships - electricity and running water - but people should not be forced to live in shacks considering the tremendous wealth among the white population of the country. Towards the end of our tour of the Two Oceans township (what was the real name of the township, anyone?), we stopped for lunch in a township restaurant. I suspect that anyone squeamish and harboring the belief that germs are bad most likely would have fled, never to return. Luckily, I am brave when it comes to food, and happily tucked into one of the best meals of hake fish and chips that I've ever enjoyed. Actually, the chips were ok., but the fish was outstanding, encased in a crispy, slightly spicy batter. The fish was not even greasy. On another note, Charlotte, our tour guide, was fabulous, frankly answering our many questions and showing us the hope that exists in an area of poverty and despair. I will never forget the joy of several girls who passed their matriculation - impressive considering that they are children of apartheid and many studied by candlelight in conditions that are less than optimal for any form of academic success.
--Pap and Sam. Consistently, I fall in love with native starchy food. Pasta, rice, polenta, cous cous and now, pap and sam. I believe that pap is meal, ground corn that in a way, resembles fluffy polenta. Sam (pronounced not with a hard "a" as in "Sam" but with a soft "a" as in "bought") also has some form of meal mixed with something resembling hominy. Both are very plain, and delicious when served with sauce or stew.
--BBQ. I love bbq, no doubt about it. Luckily for all of us, Gabe is an excellent bbqer and twice (actually three times, but I didn't eat so it doesn't count), grilled up a bunch of meat and fish for all of us. My favorites were his lamb chops and marinated ostrich. He also did some tasty pork, lamb sausage, white fish, hamburgers, steak, and well, we all had some healthy appetites.
--Wine and Chocolate. Among the wineries that we visited, Waterford stands out as unique for their excellent wine and chocolate pairings. While the wine was so-so, the surroundings were impressive, with seats in a large outdoor area consisting of dainty wrought iron tables and fluffy couches. We tasted several wines, and then for an encore, wine and chocolate arrived. Three wines were served, each paired with a specific chocolate. The first, a cabernet accompanied a piece of dark chocolate liberally sprinkled with sea salt. The second, a shiraz, came with a piece of milk chocolate and cardamom chocolate. The third, a dessert wine (Muscat, maybe?) was served with milk chocolate with flowery essences. I think I liked the dark chocolate best, but then, dark chocolate has moved into the category of one of my all-time favorite indulgences, so I am a bit biased.